I modified the 45-70 die to get a smaller crimp. Popped the crimp collar out, stuck it in the lathe and trimmed the crimp “bump” back ’till it gave me the crimp I wanted.
The un-modified crimper.
The modified crimper.
Slash, My Lee 45-70 FCD arrived today. How did you get the collet out of the die to shorten the crimping section?
I chucked the end of the collet that sticks out of the housing up in my lathe so that the housing was smack up against the jaws of the chuck, then I screwed the nut that is on the housing tight against the chuck jaws. Further tightening will force the housing away from the chuck and off of the collet.
If you don’t have a lathe you could use a vise with a couple of chunks of wood to protect the collet end. Or vise grips, a C clamp, somebody with a really string grip, you get the picture.
I just put the die in my reloading press and punched the collet out with a proper fitted wood dowel. It is just a snap ring that holds it in.
I repeat Gentlemen; most sooting usually is a function of not enough pressure. The question to ask, is why? Could be not enough powder, not enough bullet pull, or the powder burn rate is to slow, or the sum of all of these symptoms at the same time. Assuming everything else is safely reloaded to spec; these suggestions usually are the major culprits. Low pressures can cause the case not to seal in the chamber and can become so bad that the gases escaping down the sides of the case can cause the case to collapse from the side. I’ve never seen this in the 450, but it is always possible. A little sooting, at and around the case mouth is Normal and is seen in all rimless straight cases (45acp/9mm etc.). Using faster burning powders, ala, ‘lil gun/296 and others, usually keeps sooting to a minimum. AA1680, needs a stout crimp and allot of powder to seal properly, but then a little sooting can still be visible, but this should cause you no alarm and AA1680 has the additional benefit of driving the speeds up.
Something else about crimping vs. bullet creep, consider. Using a drill motor, I have chucked up the cutter of a hand held tubing cutter (every hardware store has them)and with a stone have nicely rounded off the sharp cutting edge. The cutter on the tubing cutter usually is held to the tool with a screw. Take the cutter out insert a longer screw; put a jam nut on the opposite side and you are now ready for the drill/lathe chuck. Any kind of stone will work; anything from one from the front yard or a chunk of cement, to something you buy from the hardware, just so long as it is on hard side. Now you have a nice little tool to roll a heavy crimp into the bullet at nearly any location you desire (Because we head space on the case mouth, you must stay well away from the case mouth. The crimp is best done towards the bullet base, but not on the base, bullet bases are critical to accuracy.) and is as good as any, so called standard roll crimp, something we cannot use at our case mouths. It will very slightly shorten the case length, so don’t get carried away. Keep the crimp fairly consistent, that is to say, location and pressure. Measure the final case length to see if you made it too short or have not put on enough crimp. Pull a couple of bullets and look to see if you have dented the bullet sides, you actually want this denting. This type of crimp is particularly useful when using solids. I put a groove into the solid at the spot I want to roll the crimp into, using this method. Lead based bullets do not need such a grove, as the crimp squeezes into the side of the bullet. Those long heavy bullets seem to thrive with this method of crimping, of course I still tapper crimp. After a little practice The Side Roll Crimp, as I am wont to call it, is easy to do and to keep somewhat consistent and accuracy is not adversely affected, even if you aren’t particularly consistent, yea even sometimes accuracy is made better.